PAUL HOBBS
栏目:公司新闻 发布时间:2019-09-30
保罗·霍布斯的众多成就包括帮助马尔贝克成为阿根廷知名葡萄品种,建立了自己的酿酒厂,并两次被小罗伯特·帕克提名为年度葡萄酒人物。

Paul Hobbs' numerous achievements include helping to establish Malbec as the grape of Argentina, founding his own winery and being twice named Wine Personality of the Year by Robert Parker, Jr.

Dorothy J. Gaiter talks to Hobbs about his journey in wine.

保罗·霍布斯的众多成就包括帮助马尔贝克成为阿根廷知名葡萄品种,建立了自己的酿酒厂,并两次被小罗伯特·帕克提名为年度葡萄酒人物。

多萝西·J·盖特与霍布斯就他的葡萄酒之旅进行了对话。

Dorothy J. Gaiter: You fell in love with Argentina in 1988?

Paul Hobbs: Yes, but it was only by, a sort of a serendipitous event. I went to Chile, not Argentina in March 1988, because I was looking for new challenges in my career. At that time, I was winemaker at Simi winery in Healdsburg, California. I contacted a classmate friend of mine from UC Davis, Marcelo Kogan. Marcelo, at the time was professor of, of all things, weeds.

多萝西·J·盖特:你在1988年爱上了阿根廷?

保罗·霍布斯:是的,但那只是一种偶然的事件。1988年3月,我去了智利,而不是阿根廷,因为我在我的职业生涯中寻找新的挑战。那时,我是加利福尼亚州希尔兹堡西米酒厂的酿酒师。我联系了我在加州大学戴维斯分校的同学朋友马塞洛·科根(Marcelo Kogan)。马塞洛,当时是研究野草方面的教授。

Weeds?

At the Catholic University Santiago, Chile. He was also the wine aficionado and he had many contacts with the wineries because they used his knowledge to help manage, I guess, weeds. He invited me and organized all my visits for a week in Chile. I invited another classmate friend, Jorge Catena.

杂草吗?

在智利圣地亚哥天主教大学。他也是一个葡萄酒爱好者,他和酿酒厂有很多联系,因为他们用他的知识帮助管理杂草。他邀请我并组织了我在智利为期一周的访问。我邀请了另一位同学朋友豪尔赫·卡特纳(Jorge Catena)。

I know that name.

Nicolás' younger brother, also a classmate. Jorge drove over the Andes to be with us. I did not realize that there was a problem between the Chileans and the Argentines and so when Jorge showed up, that immediately created a problem for Marcelo.

 Marcelo asked me first where he was from and I told him Argentina, so that put a very furrowed look on his face. Then, after that, he asked me, what does he do and I said, “Well, he’s a winemaker.” He thought not only have you  invited our enemy, but you’ve invited a spy as well.

I told Jorge you have to go back, but Jorge wouldn't go back. I said, “Our host is not very happy with your being here.” This was the time of Pinochet and the Falkland Islands,  the Malvinas as they prefer to call them in Argentina.

我知道这个名字。

尼古拉斯的弟弟,也是他的同学。乔治开车越过安第斯山脉来加入我们。我没有意识到智利人和阿根廷人之间存在问题,所以当豪尔赫出现的时候,马上给马塞洛制造了一个问题。

马塞洛先问我他来自哪里,我告诉他是阿根廷人,他的脸上露出了深深的皱纹。然后,在那之后,他问我,他是做什么的,我说,“嗯,他是个酿酒师。“他想你不仅邀请了我们的敌人,还邀请了一个间谍。

我告诉乔治你必须回去,但乔治不肯回去。我说:“我们的主人对你在这里不太高兴。“这是皮诺切特和福克兰群岛的时代,他们更喜欢在阿根廷称它们为马尔维纳斯群岛。

Right.

I was unaware of the history and the problem that Jorge's visit  had created. Kogan forbade me to take Catena on any trip or any visit. Then, Catena wouldn't return to Argentina. He stayed there the entire week. Finally, on Thursday afternoon, I decided, “Well, there’s no real secrets that I can see here.”

Jorge invited me to lunch, so I decided well... I got a little drunk, maybe. No, not really, but I drank a little wine and decided well, I'll take him on a visit. When I got home to Marcelo’s place that night, my luggage was outside his door. That's how I got to Argentina.

对的。

我不知道那段历史以及乔治的来访所带来的问题。科根禁止我带着卡特纳进行任何旅行或参观。然后,卡特纳就不回阿根廷了。他在那里呆了整整一个星期。最后,在周四下午,我决定,“嗯,我在这里看不到什么真正的秘密。”

乔治邀请我吃午饭,所以我决定……我可能有点醉了。不,没有醉,但我的确喝了一点酒,决定带他去看看。那天晚上我回到马塞洛家时,我的行李就放在他的门外。我就是这样来到阿根廷的。

No.

We drove over the Andes on Friday morning and I met his brother Nicolás that began our association for nine years.

Now, they wanted to talk to you about Chardonnay, right?

Oddly, today anybody would consider that to be an odd idea.

That was the idea.

Nicolás had one thought and that was that Chardonnay would prove to the world that Argentina could make world class wines because he reasoned that white wines were more technically challenging to make than reds. It would require more technology. So if we could make a high-quality white, then he reasoned that they would accept the reds automatically out of hand.

不。

周五早上,我们驱车穿越安第斯山脉,我遇见了他的哥哥尼古拉斯,从而开启了我们九年的合作。

现在,他们想和你谈谈霞多丽,对吧?

奇怪的是,今天任何人都会认为这是一个奇怪的想法。

这就是我的想法。

尼古拉斯有一个想法,那就是用霞多丽将向世界证明阿根廷可以酿造世界级葡萄酒,因为他认为白葡萄酒比红葡萄酒在技术上更具挑战性。这需要更多的技术。因此,如果我们能酿出高品质的白葡萄酒,那么他认为大家会自动接受红葡萄酒。

How did you shift that to Malbec?

That was actually another little issue that occurred because Nicolás did not want to make Malbec, but our importer wanted a red wine. Of course, the logical red wine was to make cabernet sauvignon.  Nicolás had a vineyard, so … I, however, became infatuated with the Malbec grape, something I didn't know or had familiarity with.

Nicolás Catena had an old vineyard, nearly a 100- year- old vineyard in a little area called Lunlunta along the Rio Mendoza river. That old vineyard inspired me and so even against Nicolás’  wishes, because I asked  Nicolás if he would help finance some experimental trials with the grape, I proceeded.

He said, “No, the French have already demonstrated. They did not replant after phylloxera. They have already demonstrated as well, documented in the literature about this grape, so we're not going to invest in Malbec.” Nevertheless, his head viticulturist humored me and we began working on a section of the vineyard to grow the grapes in a way that I needed them grown.

Then, I was able to get 10 free American oak barrels. I  grabbed these from a gentleman by the name of Alain Fouquet who was the head of Seguin Moreau, the famous Tonnellerie in Cognac, France. He gave me the 10 barrels of American oak because he wanted to build a Tonnellerie or a cooperage in Napa.

你是怎么把目标转移到马尔贝克的?

这实际上是另一个小问题因为尼古拉斯不想做马尔贝克,但是我们的进口商想要红酒。当然,合乎逻辑的红葡萄酒是用来酿造赤霞珠的。尼可拉斯有一个葡萄园,所以……然而,我却迷上了马尔贝克葡萄,这是我不知道也不熟悉的东西。

尼古拉斯·卡特纳有一个近100年历史的古老的葡萄园,位于里约门多萨河畔一个叫伦伦塔的小地方。那个古老的葡萄园给了我灵感,所以即使与尼古拉斯的意愿相悖,我仍继续问他是否愿意资助一些关于马尔贝克的试验。

他说,“不,法国已经证明了。自根瘤蚜之后他们就没有再种植过。他们已经证明了,在文献中有关于这种葡萄的记载,所以我们不打算在马尔贝克上投资。“尽管如此,他的首席葡萄栽培师迁就了我,我们开始在葡萄园的一部分进行工作,以我需要的方式种植葡萄。

然后,我得到了10个免费的美国橡木桶。我从一位叫阿兰·富凯的先生那里拿到了这些,他是法国著名的干邑酒庄Seguin Moreau的负责人。他给了我10个美国橡木桶,因为他想在纳帕建立一个制桶工厂或合作社。

Okay.

Today it’s called Napa Cooperage.

That’s his business?

He started that. These barrels that he sent to Argentina helped in demonstrating that that was possible because I made the first Malbecs in those barrels. When we did a tasting of wines in March 1993 for the American press; the show done there to launch the Chardonnay from Catena; that was the opportunity that I took to show them the Malbec.

Thomas Stockley, the writer for the Seattle Times wrote an article after that tasting called, “Don’t cry for me Argentina,” and he largely talked about the Malbec and the guests indicated that they liked it.   Nicolás decided in this case, we should make Malbec, and so he changed. That was the beginning of a brand that is well known today called Alamos.

好吧。

今天叫做纳帕库珀奇。

这是他的生意?

是由他发起的。他寄到阿根廷的这些桶帮助证明了这是可行的,因为我在这些桶里酿造出了第一批马尔贝克。1993年3月,我们邀请美国媒体品尝葡萄酒,在那里举办的展览是为了从卡特纳推出霞多丽葡萄酒,这就是我给他们展示马尔贝克的机会。

《西雅图时报》(Seattle Times)的作家托马斯斯托克利(Thomas Stockley)在那次品酒会后写了一篇文章,题为《阿根廷别为我哭泣》(Don 't cry for me Argentina)。大篇幅的报道了马尔贝克以及客人们很喜欢这个品种。因此,尼古拉决定我们应该做马尔贝克,所以他改变了。这是一个品牌的开始,这是众所周知的阿拉莫斯。

What's your general philosophy of wine making? You've been at it for a long time, and you're really great at it. What are your thoughts on how you do it and why you do it?

Philosophically, from my perception, wine's about enjoyment, but it's also, in addition to that, wine ties us back to some place. Some people call it a somewhereness, some people call it terroir. There's many different ways of looking at it, but that's always been important to me. My father was the first to introduce the concept to me, I think. Growing up on a fruit farm, we had 6 or 7 individual (mostly apples), apple farms in upstate New York, in Niagara County. My father enjoyed putting me to the blind tasting of matching apples to the farm. He'd take a Macintosh, for example, and he loved to line up all the Macintosh from each of the farms, blind, and ask me to discern which was which.

That was a challenge, but you know it's funny, because even the color varied. The crispness, some element of the flavor would vary, and finally if you studied it carefully, my father said you'll begin to see those differences. That has always been with me. Then, also I've been inspired by others. During the time that I worked with Robert Mondavi --and I was on the first Opus One team-- I learned that as well. Also the French have been very instrumental in my appreciation of a sense of place. When I started Paul Hobbs Winery, that was the most important aspect, how to achieve a true sense of place. That’s what I've found means a minimalistic approach to winemaking, and, maybe even more important, to farming.

It goes well beyond organic where it's just simply the use of organic practices, or organic pesticides, this kind of thing. It's really a whole concept of how to farm a vineyard in a way that, let's say, nurtures the fruit and the vine in a very natural way. There's a lot of elements to that, so rather than go into all of that, let’s just say that it's gratifying. There's been an important evolution and even a revolution in some sense, in the sense of the farming. We have to do that, because I also choose to ferment only with indigenous yeast from the bloom, or the grapes that we harvest. By using pesticide, or particularly any harsh pesticide, that would damage the indigenous yeasts. We would kill them, and they would not be able to conduct fermentation in which case that process wouldn't really work out, would it?

你的酿酒哲学是什么?你已经从事这个行业很久了,而且真的很擅长。你对如何做这件事以及为什么要做这件事有什么看法?

在哲学上,从我的理解来看,葡萄酒是关于享受的,但除此之外,葡萄酒还将我们与某个地方联系在一起。有些人称之为“某处”,有些人称之为“风土”。看待这个问题有很多不同的方法,但这些对我来说一直很重要。我想我父亲是第一个向我介绍这个概念的人。我在一个水果农场长大,我们有6或7种不同的作物(大部分是苹果),苹果农场在纽约州北部的尼亚加拉县。父亲喜欢带我到农场去盲品配对的苹果。他会拿一个麦金塔做例子,他喜欢把每个农场的麦金塔排成一行,让我分辨出哪个是哪个。

这是一个挑战,但你知道这很有趣,因为甚至颜色都是不同的。脆度,味道的某些成分会有所不同,最后,如果你仔细研究一下,我父亲说你会开始看到这些不同。这个经历一直伴随着我。然后,我也受到了别人的启发。在我和罗伯特·蒙达维一起工作的那段时间里——我是作品一号初期团队的成员——我也学到了这一点。此外,法国人在我寻找风土的感觉方面也起到了很大的指导作用。当我创办保罗霍布斯酒厂时,那是最重要的方面,如何培养真正的地方感。这就是我发现的酿酒方法的简约主义,也许对农业来说更重要。

它远远超出了简单地使用有机措施或有机杀虫剂,诸如此类的有机范畴。这是一个关于如何以一种自然的方式种植葡萄园的概念。这里面有很多因素,与其考虑全面,不如说是令人满意的。在农业的意义上有一个重要的进化,甚至是某种意义上的革命。我们必须这样做,因为我也选择只用使用本地酵母发酵。因此我们在开花和采收时如果使用杀虫剂,特别是任何刺激性的杀虫剂,都会破坏本地酵母菌。我们会杀死它们,它们就不能进行发酵,那发酵过程就不会成功,对吧?

This is serious sustainability.

This is serious sustainability, and that's in fact the word that I like, it's sustainable farming. We try to work as much as possible in that way. In the winery, in essence, we have very simple wineries, and cleanliness in this case I have found to be one of the most important factors to managing quality, because we eschew any practices like filtration or refining that could alter the character of the wine. We don't use any filtration centrifugation. We do not add any kind of element at all to the wine, except maybe from time to time we may correct the acidity with tartaric acid, or we may add a small amount of sulfur dioxide.

We have very, very, low addition of S02 as well to our wines. We have found many practices, and this has been a lifelong work ... Well I should say ... Maybe lifelong is the better word.  It’s a passion of mine since I particularly was able to work under my own label. That's the driving philosophy.

这是很严格的可持续性。

这是严格的可持续性,事实上我喜欢这个词,那就是可持续农业。我们尽可能使用这种方式工作。在我们非常简单的酿酒厂里,我发现清洁度是管理质量最重要的因素之一,因为我们避免任何可能改变葡萄酒品质的做法,比如过滤或澄清。我们不使用任何过滤离心。我们不添加任何一种元素到葡萄酒中,除了有时我们可能会使用酒石酸的调整酸度,或者我们可能会添加少量的二氧化硫。

我们的葡萄酒中S02的含量也非常非常低。我们进行了很多实践,这是一项终生的工作……我应该说……也许“一生”这个词更好。自从我能够在自己的品牌下工作,这就是我的激情所在。这就是酿造哲学。

That's pretty awesome and holistic. There's been criticism of winemakers who chase scores, high scores, and a lot of debate about Parker's influence, that wines that tend to be huge and over extracted get his attention. What do you think about that, and what is it that you're trying to do?

Well, Mr. Parker, as we all know, has become the most influential critic not only for wine, but of any type of subject matter, whether it be art ... He became the most influential critic of all-time, the world has ever known. I don't think it'll ever happen again.

这是非常棒和全面的。有人批评酿酒师追求高分,也有很多关于帕克影响力的争论,认为那些往往是大量的甚至是过度萃取的葡萄酒会引起他的注意。你是怎么想的,你想做什么?

嗯,帕克先生,我们都知道,已经成为最有影响力的评论家,不仅对葡萄酒,而且对任何类型的主题,甚至是艺术…他成为了有史以来最具影响力的评论家。我想这种事不会再发生了。

Mm-hmm (affirmative). I think you're right.

With that kind of power, is the ability to influence buyers, and buyers with money. If you've got a big score, wineries begin to chase scores, because that meant you put your wines in the hands of where you wanted your wines and you could charge more. Every winery wants to optimize their profit, as does anyone in business. That led to, I think, a misunderstanding, and I don't think that was ever intended. It was a disservice to Mr. Parker's work. My feeling is that Robert Parker, number one, is a brilliant taster and one of the most enjoyable people on the planet to be with. His personality, I think, came through in his writing, and that was a huge attraction to people when he was really truly enthusiastic about a wine.

嗯哼(肯定)。我想你是对的。

有了这种力量,就有影响买家的能力,而买家有钱。如果你的分数很高,酿酒厂就会开始追求分数,因为这意味着你把可以把葡萄酒放在你想要的地方,你就可以要价更高。每个酒厂都想优化自己的利润,就像所有的商人一样。我认为这导致了误解,我不认为这是故意的。这对帕克先生的工作是一种曲解。我的感觉是,头号人物罗伯特•帕克(Robert Parker)是一位出色的品酒师,也是这个星球上最令人愉快的人之一。我认为,他的个性体现在他的写作中,当他对葡萄酒真正充满热情时,这对人们来说是一种巨大的吸引力。

Passionate.

Passionate. With a capital P. I found him to be not interested in over extracted wines as much as I think people talk. He was more balanced. I think there was a misconception, and I think many people really didn't understand how to get where he wanted probably to see some people go. I felt, for example, everybody thought I would say, or many people thought that they should ripen the grapes to a very high sugar level. That wasn't really the idea at all. It wasn't about the sugar, it was about getting the phenolics and the physiology of the plant fully ripe, the seeds ripe, so the tannins would be sweet.

激情。

激情。我发现他对过度萃取的葡萄酒并不像人们所说的那么感兴趣。他更加平衡。我认为这是一种误解,我认为很多人真的不知道如何达到他想要的,可能只是看到一些人这么做。例如,我觉得,每个人都认为我会说,或者很多人认为他们应该使葡萄成熟度达到一个非常高的糖水平。这根本不是我的本意。不是糖的问题,而是酚类物质和植物的生理机能完全成熟,种子也成熟了,所以单宁会很甜。

They misunderstood that.

I think there were a lot of misunderstandings, finally, and so I think it went a little bit caddywhompus. It got out of control. I think everybody was influenced, to some degree, and I will include myself. It's hard not to be, and the 90's were so super heated. The economy was crazy, everything was crazy, so it just got all out of kilter, I'd say.

他们误解了。

我想最后还是有很多误解,所以我觉得这有点像《谁当爸爸》。它失去了控制。我想每个人都受到了一定程度的影响,也包括我自己。在90年代是如此的火热的状态下,很难不这样。经济是疯狂的,一切都是疯狂的,所以我想说,一切都失去了平衡。

Now the pendulum seems to be swinging back to elegance, and finesse, and balance. I read a lot about balance.

Balance is back.

Finesse and elegance were almost dirty words, because it sort of implied wimpy, or weak. Now everybody's okay to say those words again, meaning finesse means sophistication, elegance, layers. It's more like, I don't know, for a guy that likes automobiles, it's more like power and complexity and elegance all in a balanced packaged. More like what you would find in a fine Porsche, for example, versus maybe a Corvette. I don't know, I haven't driven a Corvette in a long time, but I had one, and it was all about power. I had one when I was a kid.

现在钟摆似乎又回到了优雅、灵巧和平衡。我读了很多关于平衡的书。

平衡又回来了。

技巧和优雅曾经几乎是肮脏的字眼,因为它暗示着懦弱或软弱。现在每个人都可以再谈这些词了,谈到精致意味着复杂,优雅,层次。这更像是,我不知道,对于一个喜欢汽车的人来说,这更像是一种力量、复杂和优雅的平衡组合。更像是你在一辆保时捷上看到的,而不是克尔维特。我不知道,我很久没开过克尔维特了,但我有过一辆,动力是他所追求的一切。我小时候有过一辆。

Okay. You've sort of come home in a way with your Finger Lakes project. Talk to us about that.

This is my most thrilling thing to be doing right at the moment, although it's also happening at a glacial speed here because we're having to plant vineyards from scratch. As you know, upstate New York is famous for its Riesling.  It was a Sauternes, a Château d'Yquem, that really first turned my head to wine. But when I was a graduate student at Davis, it was Riesling with names like JJ Prüm and so on. Those were the wines that captivated me the most. I've always had this inkling to come back to New York State and make wine, and I've admired some of the great work that's already been done there by ... Well I suppose in the early years by Konstantin Frank and Hermann Wiemer.  Today their wineries are making just beautiful, beautiful wines, along with others.

好吧。在某种程度上,你完成了手指湖项目。跟我们谈谈。

这是我目前最激动人心的事情,尽管它也在以一种非常缓慢的速度发生,因为我们必须从零开始种植葡萄园。如你所知,纽约州北部以雷司令而闻名。苏玳酒,滴金酒庄,让我第一次把注意力转向葡萄酒。但当我在戴维斯读研究生的时候,是名字像JJ Prum等雷司令,那些酒最吸引我。我一直有回到纽约州酿酒的想法,我很欣赏那里的一些伟大的工作,这些工作已经由……我想是康斯坦丁·弗兰克和赫尔曼·维默早期的作品。如今,他们的酿酒厂正在酿造非常非常漂亮的葡萄酒。

 I've been on a search for the last three to four years, and I have a brother fortunately, living in Rochester, who's now married to our project. He would help me scout, and for a 2-year period I would come three or four times a year and we would just simply walk, trying first to decide which lake to acquire property near, and I wanted to start from scratch. Which is the first time I've ever done a new venture from scratch, because normally we'd buy grapes. This one, we thought, "Let's start this one from scratch." We've chosen a site that has characteristics very much like you would find in the Mosel with shale and slate, steep slopes on the southern end of Seneca Lake.

It's a very beautiful area overlooking the lake, and it goes right down to the lake’s edge. This is one of the few areas that has a sheer drop down to the lake, over 100 feet.

It's steep, it's hard to plant, and it's costing a fortune, a lot more than we expected, but ...It should be a winner once we finally get it going. We're excited about it if we can stomach the cost of getting it set up.

在过去的三到四年里,我一直在寻找,幸运的是,我有一个兄弟住在罗切斯特,他现在和我们的项目结婚了。他会帮我侦察,在两年的时间里,我每年会来三、四次,我们只是简单地走一走,先决定在哪个湖附近购置房产,我想从头开始。这是我第一次从零开始创业,因为通常我们会买葡萄。这一次我们想:“让我们从头开始。”我们选择了一个非常有特色的地点,就像你在莫泽尔会看到的遍布页岩和板岩的陡峭斜坡在塞内卡湖的南端。

这是一个可以俯瞰湖面的美丽地区,一直延伸到湖边。这是为数不多的几个有垂直落差超过100英尺的地方之一。

它很陡,很难种植,而且成本很高,比我们预期的要高很多,但是……一旦我们最终启动它,它应该是一个赢家。如果我们能承受前期的投入成本,我们会很兴奋。

How many acres do you have there?

The parcel that we bought was bigger than I thought. In fact it's about 65, 67 acres, and we hope to put a winery there, but right now we've planted 3-1/2 acres. This year we'll plant another 13 or 14 acres. When it's all planted over the next three or four years,, we might be able to plant 40 or so of the 65 acres. This property had vineyards on it at one time, but at the very upper part of the property.  So today we're also planting some areas that were farmed before, but we're not removing any of the virgin wooded land. That's one of the reasons that we're only planting about 2/3 of the property.

You're also importing wines from Canada, Stratus. That's a Frenchman making wines there, right?

J-L Groux. He’s a winemaker from the Loire Valley. This is a gentleman who is also highly passionate. David Feldberg, the winery’s owner, is a Canadian fellow who in fact has a furniture business that makes high end office furniture. He has here in New York City, Chicago, and other parts of major cities beautiful showrooms. We've even done tastings in these showrooms, and he's one of the main suppliers to Google, and Apple, and this sort of thing.

你有多少英亩土地?

我们买的地块比我想象的要大。事实上,它大约有65-67英亩,我们希望在那里建一个酿酒厂,但现在我们已经种植了3-1/2英亩。今年我们将再种13或14英亩。如果在接下来的三到四年里全部种植完毕,我们也许能在65英亩的土地上种上40英亩左右葡萄树。这地从前有葡萄园,不过仅在土地的上半部分。所以今天我们也在一些以前耕种过的土地上种植,但是我们不会移除任何一块原始的林地。这就是为什么我们只种植了2/3的土地。

你们也从加拿大进口葡萄酒,斯特拉图斯。一个法国人在那里酿酒,对吗?

J-L Groux。他是卢瓦尔河谷的酿酒师。他是一位充满激情的绅士。酿酒厂老板戴维·费尔德伯格(David Feldberg)是加拿大人,他实际上拥有一家生产高端办公家具的家具企业。他在纽约、芝加哥等大城市开设了漂亮的陈列室。我们甚至在这些展厅里做过品鉴活动,他是谷歌和苹果等公司的主要供应商之一。

Really.

What he really loves is wine. It's incredible. That's all he talks about. He has built, I think, perhaps the world's first Leeds Platinum Winery, called Stratus. I've been working with them now 5 years, or maybe 6 years, since the 2009 vintage. Today, in the area that we're located at, Niagara-on-the-Lake, the grapes for reds is cabernet franc. To me that is the quintessential variety for that region at this point. We have been doing a great deal of experimentation. Of course it's known for ice wines, riesling, and it does well with whites. Chardonnay also can be grown at a very high level there, but in terms of reds, it reminds me a bit of southern Hungary.

真的。

他真正喜欢的是葡萄酒,很不可思议。他只说这些。我认为或许他建造了世界上第一个利兹铂金酒庄,叫做Stratus。从2009年开始,我已经和他们合作了5年,也许6年。今天,在我们在位于尼亚加拉湖上的园区种植红葡萄品种-品丽珠。对我来说,这是这个地区的典型品种。我们一直在做大量的实验。当然,它以冰酒、雷司令而闻名,白葡萄酒也不错。霞多丽葡萄酒在那里也表现不错,但就红葡萄酒而言,它让我想起了匈牙利南部。

It gets ripe enough there.

It does, and it's very similar. Southern Hungary in the v-line region of below Budapest will ripen, but it also has a great deal of snow in the winter, so it also gets very cold.

I bet that's delicious.

It is delicious. Yes. I'm very excited about this project. We're very fortunate to be the U.S. importers for Stratus. We just began the representation of Stratus Wines in 2014.

它在那里充分成熟。

确实如此,而且非常相似。葡萄在匈牙利南部位于布达佩斯以南的v型线地区也会成熟,但是那里冬天也会下很多雪,所以也会变得很冷。

我敢打赌那一定非常美味。

的确很美味。我对这个项目非常兴奋。我们很幸运能成为斯特拉图斯的美国进口商。我们在2014年才开始代理斯特拉图斯。

As an importer and a wine maker, are you involved in the making of the wines you import?

Not necessarily. Only in this particular case yes, but in many cases, it's not by any means a prerequisite for importation. What we look for are suppliers that are A, dedicated to quality, are family-owned, and have estate values, or château -like values to their approach. For example in Chile, we work with Perez Cruz, and they're one of the very few estate properties in all of Chile. You would think with such an important wine country that there would be many estate properties, well in fact there's 1 or 2. Or there’s  3 or 4, but no more than that. These are the kind of properties that we seek out.

作为一个进口商和酿酒师,您是否参与了您进口葡萄酒的生产?

不一定。某些情况下会的。但在很多情况下,它并不是进口的先决条件。我们寻找的供应商都是顶级的,专注于品质,家族所有,并有房地产价值,或像城堡一样的价值。比如在智利,我们和佩雷斯·克鲁兹合作,他们是智利为数不多的房地产公司之一。你可能会想,在这样一个重要的葡萄酒产区,会有很多酒庄房产,实际上有1到2处。或者有3或4个,但不超过这个数。这些就是我们要寻找的品质。

He makes a great petit verdot. I was crazy for that wine. Wow.

They're on a very stony site and high in the Andes.

Now how did you find them?

Well, I don't really run that business. I'm dedicated mainly to the wine making. I spend my time in the vineyards and making wine, so that's run by another gentleman, Mark Evans. We have a team dedicated to that program. Paul Hobbs Imports started because of a brand that I created for Nicolas Catena called Alamos, which is now ... I was the first importer of Alamos, because we made the first Malbecs.

Nicolas wanted me to represent the wine, because nobody knew at that time what Malbec was. I did that for 2 years, but then they pulled the brand to a larger importer once I had it established, and so I closed my import company and reopened it in 2001 when I launched Viña Cobos Wines, my label with Andrea Marchiori and Luis Barraud, from Argentina.  Then I decided, "Well, if I'm going to import Viña Cobos I might as well look for some other like-minded top quality producers, and so that's what we do today. It's very exciting.

他做了一款很棒的小味儿多。我为那款酒疯狂。哇。

它们产自安第斯山脉的高处的多石土地。

你是怎么找到它们的?

嗯,我并不是真的经营那个生意。我主要从事酿酒工作。我在葡萄园里酿酒,由另一位先生马克·埃文斯经营。我们有一个团队致力于这个项目。保罗霍布斯进口创立直吹是因为我为尼古拉斯卡特纳创造了一个品牌叫阿拉莫斯。我是阿拉莫斯的第一个进口商,因为我们生产了第一批马尔贝斯。

尼古拉想让我代理葡萄酒,因为当时没有人知道马尔贝克是什么。我代理了两年并是这个品牌扎根立足后,他们把它卖给了一个更大的进口商,所以我关闭了我的进口公司。2001年重新开业,因为当时我创立了Vina Cobos Wines,这是我与阿根廷的安德里亚·马尔基奥里(Andrea Marchiori)和路易斯·巴罗(Luis Barraud)合作的品牌。然后我决定,“好吧,如果我要进口Vina Cobos,我也可以找一些其他志同道合的高品质生产商,这就是我们今天所做的,非常令人兴奋。